Bryan’s “Bloody” Rat Row

“Rat Row” was a colorful term used for several decades to refer to the northern ends of North Main and Bryan Streets in downtown Bryan, beginning by the 1880s. Many buildings in that area were decrepit (or at least, quite plain) – hence the name. This was one of the first business districts in Bryan and quickly became a melting pot with African American businesses and also merchants who were first or second generation immigrants. While the stores in this area were not the most elegant and did not carry the most expensive goods, this region was historically significant because it was where common folk – of all racial and ethnic groups – shopped, socialized, ate, and, in a few cases, lived. The term continued in common use until the early 1920s. The term occasionally was used in later years.

“Rat Row” was a generic term, used in other cities in towns. A newspaper article in 1898 noted, for example, that “rat row” burned in Bartlett, in Williamson County, Texas (Dallas Morning News, 4 September 1898, page 21). Then in 1902, the same paper reported that “Rat Row” in Crawford, Texas, burned. (Dallas Morning News, 31 January 1902, page 2). As early as 1874, Dallas had a “Rat Row.” (Dallas Daily Herald, 18 April 1874, page 4).

Bryan, February 21 ... This morning another conflagration occurred which destroyed the entire block of old buildings in Bryan known as “Rat Row,” and which were the first buildings erected in Bryan when it was the terminus of the Central railroad. The loss is as follows: M. Moustachia, building, $300; saved stock, Wm. McCorquodale, building, lost $400, stock damaged $200, Mr. Bonneville, building loss $900, occupied by Mrs. L.H. Thompson, whose stock was damaged $200, C.F. More [Moore], loss on building $500, insured for $400, L.C. Leroy & Dozier, stock damaged $150, the Coulter building, $500, F. Zannette, two buildings, loss $800, damage to stock $300. No insurance on any of the buildings and stock except the C.F. More building. Mrs. Zubier’s loss on her household effects amounted to about $50. The firemen were on hand and did good service, saving many buildings that would otherwise have been destroyed. Galveston Daily News, February 22, 1884, page 1

Bryan City officers raided a gambling den on Rat Row Saturday night and caught ten persons who were indulging in the seductive delights of gaming. The city’s finances have been materially assisted by the liberal donations of the parties implicated. Galveston Daily News, October 17, 1893, page 6

As announced in our last issue a colored theatre has been rigged up on Rat Row and a home talent minstrel organization holds forth there three nights a week. The first performance was given Saturday night, and developed some real talent in singing and dancing, especially the latter. The “acting” of the show was positively excruciating, however it may improve with practice. When a Negro tries to act the nigger he acts the fool; all he has to do is to act natural. The boys should not keep their music so much in the background; it is their best feature. The order was good, no smoking or bad conduct being allowed in the room. A few white people were present. (weekly) Bryan Eagle, March 25, 1895, page 6

Bryan, Tex., March 24 – A shooting scrape between two Negroes occurred last night about 12 o’clock on Rat Row. Amos Hawkins shot twice at Albert Grace, neither shot taking effect. Both gave bond. Galveston Daily News, March 25, 1895, page 2

The peaceful monotony of existence on Rat Row was relieved by a shooting scrape about 12 o’clock Saturday night. Amos Hawkins shot twice at Albert Graves, both Negroes. As told by colored policeman Levi Neal, the story is about as follows: Hawkins was accused of writing notes to Graves’ wife. Graves had some trouble with his wife Saturday and probably chastised her a little. After the show Saturday night Graves walked up to Hawkins and belted him over the head with a piece of a billiard cue. Hawkins staggered but recovered himself and pulled his gun, firing twice at Graves who ran. Levi Neal ran between them and fired his pistol into the ground to stop Hawkins, which he did. Both were arrested, and gave bond. (weekly) Bryan Eagle, March 28, 1895, page 3

April 13, 1895 (Bryan, Texas) “Mr. A.K. Cole has tendered his resignation as manager of the ‘Black Diamond’, a local ministrel [sic]. He had accepted a position with Dr. F.E. King’s traveling medicine show” (Indianapolis Freeman). Abbott, Lynn, Out of Sight: The Rise of African American Popular Music, 1889-1895 (2003), p.423

Two Negroes, Herbert Adams and Louis Jackson, were arrested Saturday evening by Marshal Shelburnefor running a wheel of fortune on Rat Row. Bryan Weekly Eagle, May 9, 1895, page 3

Charles Vesmivrosky has opened a new beer hall with a double bar and domino room in the rear on Rat Row and has been handing out American beer several days now. There are now seven saloons and two beer halls in the city. (weekly) Bryan Eagle, May 16, 1895, page 4

Two ladies of color, Nettie Toliver and Mag Richardson, had a battle royal Sunday afternoon down on Rat Row. This time there was a man at the bottom of it, a Negro. Those who saw the scrap said it was fast and furious, and badly mixed with mud and hair. All parties were arrested and three times seven six-bits was added to the revenue of the city. (weekly) Bryan Eagle, June 27, 1895, page 3

At an early hour this morning “the winds blew and the rains descended upon” the houses of Bryan in such a terrific manner as to excite the alarm of many. Several roofs, skylights and windows were damaged considerably, and a number of business houses leaked a good deal. Large sheets of tin were peeled off the awnings down on “Rat Row,” and some of the bill boards were blown down. Altogether it was the heaviest storm experienced here for some time, and from what we can learn, was the cause of a small amount of extemporaneous prayer. Bryan Daily Eagle, December 19, 1895, page 4

Jim Reddick v. The State.

Court of Criminal Appeals of Texas

35 Tex. Crim. 463; 34 South Western Reporter 274; 1896 Tex. Crim. App. LEXIS 42

Decided February 19, 1896

This case involved the conviction of an African American man named Jim Reddick for the rape of an “Italian woman.” Among other items, the summary of the Texas court decision notes: Billy Cunningham testified: “That at good daylight he saw the defendant standing on the corner of Main street in Bryan, called “Rat Row.”

Bryan … Mr. G. Tillery and family have moved back to the city. Mr. Tillery has opened a grocery store on Rat row, and would be pleased to have his friends remember him when in need of anything in his line of business. Dallas Express, January 13, 1900, page 7

“The Storm and Rain,” Bryan Morning Eagle and Pilot, March 25, 1909, page 5. “Awnings were blown down in front of Hunnicutt’s Livery stable, Vick’s Feed store, Lobello’s store and three stores on rat row.”

The “Happy Hour Theatre,” a moving picture show, is being fitted up in one of the Parson’s buildings on “Rat Row” and will open Saturday morning at 10 o’clock. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, 1 July 1909, page 3

[ad] Colored patronage to the Happy Hour Theatre, restricted to Saturdays only. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, 17 August 1909, page 3

[ad] Special opening of the Happy Hour Theatre tonight. Ladies free. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, 17 August 1909, page 3

[ad] Fine new pictures and illustrated songs every night except Sunday at the Happy Hour Theatre. Good music. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, August 17, 1909, page 3

Happy Hour Theatre – Located North End Zannetti Block. Open every night (except Sunday) from 8.00 to 10:30 p.m. Saturdays 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. SHOWING HIGH CLASS MOVING PICTURES, Dramatic, Pathetic, Tragic, Comic and Magical Effects. Also Beautiful Illustrated Songs Projected by the latest improved Edison Machine efficiently operated, the Pictures being steady, clear and sharp. The public cordially invited, especially the ladies and children who need have no fear or hesitancy in coming out to our entertainment, as the management will require and maintain good order and behavior at all times; no roughness or rowdyism being tolerated. Electric Fans, and plenty of comfortable seats. White Patronage Exclusively except on Saturdays, when separate entrance and division is provided for white and colored. Single Admission 10c Clubs of 6 or more 5c each Weekly Tickets 25c each. Bryan Daily Eagle, September 6, 1909, page 4

The Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, 30 September 1909, page 6

L. Richard, a young Negro man is now in the county jail and in all sorts of trouble for his misdoings on Saturday night. He met up with an old Negro man on “Rat Row” Saturday night and representing himself to be an office of the law, placed the old man under arrest. He carried him up by the jail and asked the old man if he had any money he could pay down on his fine. The old Negro protested that he had done nothing but said he had a little money and gave the would-be officer $6.30 to be applied on his fine. The young Negro then left the old man after telling him to be sure to meet him at court Monday morning. The old Negro is out his money, but is free, while the young buck must do the answering at court himself. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, December 13, 1909, page 2

About 6:30 o’clock Saturday evening a free for all fight took place on ‘Rat Row’ in this city among a lot of Negroes which had a bloody and fatal termination. As a result of the fight Ed Ewing is dead and Earnest King is stabbed in the back, and he and Charley Cooper and Ida McCall the other participants are in jail. The participants are all well known among the colored people and the affair caused considerable excitement. The facts in the case as outlined by a gentleman who was passing along and saw the trouble, are about as follows: Ed Ewing and Charley Cooper became involved in a difficulty inside or right about the door of Bailey Bowen's place of business on ‘Rat Row.’ They scuffled out to the edge of the sidewalk and Cooper got off the sidewalk into the street. About this time Ernest King, who is a brother-in-law to Cooper, ran up, and as he did so, Ida Me Call, a Negro woman friend of Ewing, told him a time or two not to go to where the men were fighting. He went on however, and the woman went after him. When King got to Ewing he raised his arm and began stabbing him as fast as he could plunge his knife into his neck and the top of his shoulder. After stabbing him four or five time he ran out in to the street and called two or three of his friends to him and they left going toward Allen Smith’s store. While the fight was in progress, however, the woman had cut King once or twice in the back. After the fight Ewing hesitated a moment and then ran up the street to Mr. James corner and up the stairs leading to the doctor’s offices and fell dead Just as be entered the hall. His feet were outside the door and his body lay in the hall where it was seen by the large crowd that gathered in a few minutes. The officers were on hand promptly and in just a little while had all three of the live participants in the contest, Charley Cooper, Ernest King and Ida McCall, landed behind the bars in the county jail. The examining trial of the three parties under arrest began at 2 o’clock this afternoon and was still in progress when the Eagle went to press. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, December 20, 1909, page 1

The examining trial of Ernest King, Charley Cooper and Ida McCall, the three Negroes arrested for participating in the fight that caused the death of Ed Ewing, was concluded late yesterday afternoon The bond of King, who is charged with the murder of Ewing, was fixed at $1000. That of Ida McCall who is charged with an assault to murder king was fixed at $200. The evidence developed showed that Charley Cooper had no part in the killing, he having only engaged in a fist fight and he was therefore permitted to plead guilty to an affray and was fined $1.00 and costs. He paid his fine and was released. The McCall woman made bond and was also released. King has not yet made bond. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, December 21, 1909, page 1

“District Court,” Bryan Daily Eagle, March 22, 1910, page 5. “Ernest King, colored, charged with murder in the second degree, pled guilty to manslaughter and his punishment was assessed at two years in the penitentiary. He waived all time rights and asked that sentence be passed at once so that his time would begin today. King was charged with killing Ed Ewing on “rat row” late one evening some months ago by stabbing him to death, and it is the general opinion that he got out with a very light sentence.”

Ernest King, colored, who plead guilty to manslaughter at the recent term of the district court and given two years in the penitentiary, was removed yesterday by the state transfer agent. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, April 25, 1910, page 3

Another Negro slashing took place on “Bloody Rat Row” late yesterday afternoon in which two colored damsels were the participants. Clara Horton was the slasher and Anna Sanders got slashed. The row, as usual, was over some colored gentleman and the fight was fast and furious. The knife entered the Sanders woman’s near the face and split down through the mouth and chin inflicting an ugly wound. She also received two or three wounds in the breast that penetrated the lung cavity. The Sanders woman was taken at once to a physician’s office and given treatment, and the Eagle learns is in a precarious condition. Clara Horton was arrested and is in jail. Bryan Daily Eagle, July 12, 1910, page 3

About 3 o’clock this afternoon business in the police department began to pick up and arrests were made in rapid succession. The newly appointed deputy marshal, John Smith, got busy and arrested three drunken Negroes in about fifteen minutes. Just about the time things got quiet on South Main street, a Negro fight started on Rat Row, and Sheriff Conlee hauled “Dude Dan” for lacerating the anatomy of a Negress. Dude is a well known Negro sport and his many friends will no doubt be embarrassed to know he is spending the night at Hotel de Conlee. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, November 28, 1910, page 6

A cutting scrape on occurred “Rat Row” late Saturday afternoon, in which two colored ladies were the participants. Henrietta Williams got slashed with a knife and Mary Jackson is alleged to have done the slashing. (weekly) Bryan Eagle, March 7, 1912, page 8

In a difficulty on “Rat Row” early this morning John Cortemelia, an Italian farmer, stabbed Cal O’Neal, colored, inflicting several serious knife wounds about the head, neck and shoulder. The Eagle learns the trouble came up over the price to be paid for cotton chopping. Cortemelia was arrested, but later released on bond. The Negro was taken at once to a physician’s office and given surgical attention. He will recover. (weekly) Bryan Eagle, May 16, 1912, page 7

“City Council Meeting,” Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, August 10, 1912, page 6. “The street committee was instructed to notify property owners on “Rat Row” to provide concrete sidewalks to replace the old board walks.”

It was reported that the side walks in Block 259 [?] were in very bad condition, planks being very thin and in many places broken through. On motion duly seconded and passed it was ordered that the property owners be notified to put in concrete walks along that block. Bryan City Council Minutes, page 122, August 9, 1912

The property owners on Main street on what is known as “Rat Row” have started the work of complying with a recent city ordinance directing that the old, rickety and uneven wooden sidewalks be removed and replaced with concrete walks. It is a good big undertaking, as the houses on “Rat Row” are built over a deep ravine and under some of the walks it is from five to twelve feet to the ground. This has to be filled and thoroughly packed to make a foundation for the concrete, and necessitates a great deal of work. When completed, however, it will add to the value of the property, to say nothing of looks and convenience. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, September 6. 1912, page 3

Quite a change is taking place in the appearance of North Main street caused by the laying of concrete walks in front of the places of business of F. J. Elbricht, Allen Smith, S. C. Woiton, Levene & Fox and Fred Weis, all of which have been completed. W. P. Wallace, the well known concrete contractor, is placing new concrete walks in front of the business houses of D. Mike, Jr., Brogdon’s feed store and H. D. Evans, on “Rat Row.” These improvements are adding greatly to the desirability of that section of the city as a business district and the property owners will be more than amply recompensed by increased values. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, September 20, 1912, page 2

Early Sunday morning Carlos Trebino, a Mexican employed in a restaurant on Rat Row, was seriously stabbed by J. W. Ledbetter, a white brickmason. Ledbetter is being held awaiting the outcome of the Mexican’s wounds. Trebino was in a serious condition Sunday, but this morning he is much improved and there is now small probability of the stab proving fatal. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, 4 November 1912, page 4

Henry Pickett, a Negro apparently between thirty-five and forty years old, dropped dead on the sidewalk on “Rat Row” this morning about 7 o’clock. He was supposed to be in excellent health, and was starting out to A. and M. College, where he was employed on buildings going up. While passing along the walk, he suddenly staggered, grasped an awning post and collapsed, and was dead before anyone reached him. His death is attributed to heart failure. (weekly) Bryan Eagle, 4 April 1913, page 7

Concrete walks are being laid on the north third of the block on Main street known as “Rat Row,” which completes the cement walks on the block. The improvement is a great help since the walks are crowded with people most of the time. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, April 29, 1913, page 3

“Heart Ripped Open by Knife Thrust,” Bryan Daily Eagle, October 25, 1913, page 1. “Son Bell and John Cooper, both Negroes, engaged in a difficulty on ‘Rat Row’ about 2 o’clock this afternoon, and Cooper was killed. Bell used a knife with which he ripped Cooper’s heart wide open and he fell to the sidewalk, expiring a few moments later in his own warm heart’s blood as it gurgled from his breast. The Negroes were brothers-in-law. Cooper married Bell’s sister and he is now alleged to have killed her, being now under indictment for her murder” … (article continues).

The examining trial of Son Bell, Negro, held for killing John Cooper, another Negro, last Saturday afternoon, was held this morning and his bond fixed at $1000. Bell made the bond and was released. Bryan Daily Eagle, October 28, 1913, page 6

The examining trial of the two Negroes, Haywood Henderson and Porter Reed, charged with robbing the Mexican, Antonio Ortiz, some time ago back of one of the saloons on Rat Row, which was to have been held yesterday, was postponed to the 16th of January on account of the absence of Ortiz, the prosecuting witness. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, January 14, 1914, page 3

The examining trial of the two Negroes, Haywood Henderson and Porter Reed, charged with robbing a Mexican back of one of the saloons on Main street, to have been held yesterday, was waived by agreement of the attorneys, and the bond fixed at $300 each. Reed made bond and was released, but Henderson failed to do so and was remanded to jail. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, 17 January 1914, page 2

Berry Jones and Lonzy Moore, two Negroes, were arrested by Sheriff Conlee Saturday night and lodged in jail, charged with aggravated assault. They had been in a drunken fight on Rat Row in which both were cut, but not very seriously. Moore received a cut in the side which might have resulted seriously if the blade of the knife used by Jones had not broken. Jones was cut on the head and back, but neither cut amounted to much. Jones was let out on bond this morning, awaiting trial at the July term of the county court. His bond was fixed at $100. Bryan Weekly Eagle, 4 June 1914, page 1

For some time our energetic and enthusiastic city engineering, A. S. Adams, in connection with the many other branches of civic improvement that he has been pushing, has been working on a sewer line for the lower part of Main street, known as Rat Row, which is a section of the business district of Bryan that has never had a city sewer service. A force of men is now at work on this line and same is being laid on Bryan Street from Caldwell Street To Calhoun Street, which will take in Rat Row, the Allen Smith block and the Palermo block. This is a very much needed improvement and Mr. Adams and the members of the City Council should be given a unanimous vote of thanks for this step. All property owners in this section of the city will be required to connect up with the sewer immediately after it is finished. All sewer manholes in this section of the city are being raised about ten feet so as to put them on a line with the I. & G. N. track on Bryan Street, which is now being put up to the street level as a result of an effort made by Engineer Adams and Alderman Vick in a trip to Houston to visit the officials of that road some few weeks ago. This is a long step in the way of civic improvement and will remove an old eye-sore from view which has been in the City of Bryan for many years. Let the good work proceed. Bryan Daily Eagle, 27 May 1916, page 4

For some time our energetic and enthusiastic city engineer, A.S. Adams, in connection with the many other branches of civic improvement that he has been pushing, has been working on a sewer line for the lower part of Main Street, known as Rat Row, which is a section of the business district of Bryan that has never had a city sewer service. A force of men is now at work on this line and same is being laid on Bryan Street from Caldwell Street to Calhoun Street, which will take in Rat Row, the Allen Smith block and the Palermo block. This is a very much needed improvement and Mr. Adams and the members of the City Council should be given a unanimous vote of thanks for this step. All property owners in this section of the city will be required to connect up with the sewer immediately after it is finished. Bryan Weekly Eagle, 1 June 1916, page 6

The fill from Main Street to Bryan street just below Rat Row is going on hurriedly. About half this work has been finished and in only a few more days it will be ready for traffic. Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, 31 August 1916, page 2

The case styled the State of Texas vs. Drucilla Hudley, which has been on trial In the district court this week, came to a close yesterday afternoon. It will he remembered that several weeks ago City Marshal John D. Conlee attempted to arrest her on Rat Row one Saturday night and she showed fight and inflicted some very ugly wounds on Marshal Coulee’s face with a sharp bladed pocketknife. The case was turned over to the jury yesterday afternoon and after a deliberation of twelve hours a verdict was returned giving her two years in the state penitentiary. The defendant was represented by Attorney C.H. Hudson and immediately after the verdict was read he filed a motion for a new trial, which will he heard later. Bryan Weekly Eagle, 5 October 1916, page 3

“Free Three Months Back to Jail,” Bryan Daily Eagle and Pilot, 2 December 1916, page 1. “A Negro by the name of T. M. Tolly” … “proceeded to rent himself the basement of an old store building on Rat Row” and he began to collect cotton he stole from around town. He was arrested for theft.

City Marshal Conlee arrested a Mexican Saturday evening about 7:30 o’clock on Rat Row, who was flashing a gun. After investigation it was found that the “umbry” had a very peculiar weapon. It was a 22 on a 32 frame and was loaded with six 22 short shells. Marshall Conlee said it looked like a shame to take him in, but he was forced to do it, as the gun might sting a fellow pretty badly if he was shot with it. The Mexican entered a plea of guilty this morning in the county court and was assessed the usual fine of $1.00 plus costs. Bryan Daily Eagle, 4 December 1916, page 7

[ad] Hurry! Hurry!! Rat Row Will Be On Fire Not To Literally Burn Up, But Will Be Made As Radiant As A Street Fair By – Maloney Co.’S Bic January Clearance Sale Begins Friday, January 26-Closes Saturday, Feb. 3rd. Eight Big Selling Days. Every Article of Merchandise in Our Large Stock ... (continues for full page). Bryan Weekly Eagle, 1 February 1917, page 5

WE CAN’T STOP The Going is Too Good WE WILL CONTINUE The Big ^^Rat Row” Sale ONE WEEK MORE UNTIL SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 10 Just make up your mind right now that you will attend this Sale Every Day Next Week YOU CAN SAVE MONEY Many have taken advantage of this big money saving opportunity during the past week; and it is the many expressions of complete satisfaction and appreciation by our patrons, that has prompted us to continue this feast for another week. SALE WILL POSITIVELY CLOSE SATURDAY FEB. 10th. We are sure that you have never before seen a complete stock of all new and seasonable merchandise offered at such startling prices. WE WANT YOU TO COME AND SEE FOR YOURSELF! COME AND LET OUR PRICES TALK TO YOU. Remember this: there is but one real Dry Goods Store on Rat Row—Look for the Red Signs. Maloney & Company RAT ROW ON MAIN STREET. Bryan, Texas. Bryan, Texas. Bryan Weekly Eagle, 3 February 1917, page 4

[City Council meeting] ... Property owners on "Rat Row’’ were ordered to take care of the rain water situation. Bryan Weekly Eagle, 26 April 1917, page 2

Rat Row is getting to look so spick and span somebody will be suggesting soon that the name be changed to Rodent Boulevard. Bryan Daily Eagle, 17 July 1918, page 2

“Bryan Grippe [Influenza] Situation Worse; Soft Drinks Barred,” Bryan Daily Eagle, October 11, 1918, page 1. “Orders from the city manager to the police department state that on Saturday no crowds must be allowed to congregate on the streets and that the loafing on ‘rat row’ must be broken up.”

Work will commence at once on extending five buildings on “rat row.” The buildings will be extended back towards Bryan street to a depth of 100) feet. The owners of the property to be extended are, Tony Woodyard, Frank Patronella, W.O. Hearne, J.W. Coulter and Rube Brogden. The contract has been awarded to Ollie Martinson and the price is understood to be in the neighborhood of about $5000. Bryan Daily Eagle, 12 April 1919, page 4

[ad] Valuable Business Lot, Two Residence Houses for Sale. 75 x 100 feet in Block 104, fronting Bryan street (Rat Row), in rear Braatz property. Reasonable. Bryan Daily Eagle, 29 July 1919, page 4

“Amusing ‘Trial’ is Held by 50 Members Snell Post Veterans,” Bryan Weekly Eagle, March 9, 1922, p. 4 Mock “trial” held of an “alleged bootlegger” by the chapter of the Disabled Veterans of America. One person was allegedly taken to Rat Row where he bought whiskey.

Down memory lane: Do you remember when the business block on the west side of Main Street between 21st and 24th streets, consisted of wooden buildings built over a big gully and was known as “Rat Row” … Bryan Daily Eagle, 15 February 1938, page 4

... When Mr. McKenzie left Mrs. T. R. Clarke’s employ she sold out to Jno. T. Wyse, who moved his dry goods business from “Rat Row” or North Main street, and bought Mrs. Clarke’s jewelry business ... Bryan Daily Eagle, 23 March 1938, page 4